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The key to curbing fashion’s sustainability challenges starts with overhauling the use of plastic in clothing. This is according to RMIT’s School of Fashion and Textiles PhD researcher Dr Tamzin Rollason.

“We need to stop making fashion from plastics that is designed to end up in landfill after a few short wears,” Dr Rollason said.

“If we want to have a sustainable fashion and textile industry, using and disposing of clothing in a way that is friendly to the environment and ourselves, overhauling the use of plastics must be one of the first things to change.” 

This comes amid Plastic Free July, a global movement to end plastic waste. Dr Rollason said the challenge with ending the use of plastic textiles is that they are cheaper to utilise compared to many natural fibres.

“They offer performance qualities like durability, stretchiness and water resistance, and can also mimic the wear and drape of luxury textiles like silk.  

“Added to this, there is not enough land to grow enough cotton to meet current clothing demands – especially when competing with land for food production. 

“It’s not surprising that plastic use in fashion and textiles has become so widespread, with an estimated 62% of textiles sold in Australia made from synthetics.”

Plastic textiles are made from non-renewable fossil fuels, Dr Rollason said, and they often cannot be recycled into new textiles or broken down. She added that when plastics are blended with natural fibres - such as a polyester/wool jumper - they are difficult to reprocess. 

“While we don’t yet know the lifespan of plastic from clothing in landfill, it is likely to be thousands of years,” Dr Rollason said. “Add to that, some contain 'forever chemicals' which pose major risks to human health and the environment over time. 

“Microplastics in synthetic textiles contribute to environmental pollution through microfibre shedding, via washing machine liquid waste. 

“Consumers may be surprised to know that plastics in textiles are common even in clothing with a higher price tag. So, while purposeful shopping of clothing with natural fibres (like cotton, wool and silk) is part of the solution, it’s not simply a matter of what you buy – but how much.”

Dr Rollason said the demand for clothing is astronomical. A clothing data report tabled by the Australian Fashion Council showed that in 2018-2019, Australia imported 1.42 billion items of clothing at a value of $9.2 billion. 

New reports confirm that Australian are buying an average 56 new items per year, with the rest going to landfill.

“We also know that around 40 per cent of people’s clothing have not been worn for a year or more,” Dr Rollason said.

“Add to this, 30 to 40 per cent of garments produced are not sold and end up as ‘dead stock’ that must be disposed of, and we’ve seen unethical returns practices in the industry – such as Shein disposing of returns to avoid the logistical hassle and expense of reselling garments.  

“We simply do not need so many clothes.

“Meanwhile, fashion and textile producers need to consider the design of products across their entire lifecycle – beyond sale, and consider how it will be used and what becomes of a garment when it is no longer worn.  

“The problem goes beyond the plastic itself, to how it is used. While some plastic textiles may be appropriate – such as a durable, water-resistant hiking jacket that is worn for decades – items intended for short-term use, like trend pieces, should use biodegradable textiles.”

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