Melbourne Fashion Hub (MFH) founder Julia Browne says the greatest challenge for emerging designers in Australia is a growing lack of comprehensive business education.
MFH is a not-for-profit incubation program designed to educate new designers across various areas of fashion design.
Speaking with Ragtrader, Browne says some designers graduate without the necessary knowledge of the business of fashion, citing a lack of focus on business acumen across design education.
Browne says the difficulties designers face in managing the costs of their ventures is a global issue, citing stories in The New York Times and The Guardian.
“Understanding these challenges is crucial for the industry to provide emerging designers with the necessary support and resources,” Browne says.
“Unlike other creative industries, there’s no mandatory association for fashion graduates, leading to a fragmented landscape where crucial information isn’t centralised. This creates additional barriers for new designers who must actively ‘hunt out’ information and resources.
“The current global shift across the industry is betting on ‘sure things’ with an increasing focus on commercial viability and increased profits over creativity, further challenging emerging designers.
“This shift is influencing the design process and even the perception of fashion as an art form. Additionally, Australia’s status as the world’s largest per capita consumer of textiles, driven mainly by fast fashion, demonstrates that most no longer see clothes as treasured items but more as fast-moving consumer goods.
“This devalues the work of designers and makers who emphasise responsible practice, quality and craftsmanship.”
Alongside challenges for emerging designers, Browne confirms that her program is also navigating significant shifts, including a pull-back from many of its key supporters due to the cost of living. MFH draws on the expertise of industry professionals who volunteer their time to share knowledge and skills with emerging designers.
“Like many grassroots initiatives, this unexpected hurdle underscored the need for financial stability, which has become my primary focus for the remainder of 2024,” Browne says. “In addition to actively seeking grant support and engaging with corporate partners whose CSR initiatives align with our mission, I’m launching a suite of new resources.
“These resources, including an Australia-wide fashion business consultancy service and career tools tailored for Australia’s emerging designers and startups, will provide practical guidance and support, such as financial planning, marketing strategies, and business development, helping designers navigate the current cost-of-living challenges.”
According to Browne, approximately 2,000 fashion designers graduate yearly, with competition growing tighter. While many venture into founding their own business, many more dive into employment.
Browne says feedback from industry professionals indicates that employers are looking for multifaceted employees with skills in pattern-making, tech pack creation, sewing, and proficiency in software like CLO - a 3D fashion design tool.
“The ability to wear multiple hats has become essential for those entering the industry, regardless of whether they’re seeking positions as designers or roles like pattern-making.”
Challenges aside, Browne confirms there are plenty of green shoots and opportunities for emerging designers right now.
“Melbourne Fashion Hub is at the forefront of a broader movement of individuals and communities who aren’t waiting for change but are actively driving it,” she says.
“Educational institutions are now offering fashion enterprise courses, and local communities are providing more support, with Melbourne retail spaces like the Error 404 store and Object Merchant showcasing local creatives.
“New initiatives like Bronzen Taylor Bogaars’ ‘Pieces Pieces Pieces’ pop-up store and emerging runways and fashion festivals, such as Revival Runway, Cairns, and Brisbane Fashion Festival, are creating additional platforms for designers to present their work.
“I’m optimistic that the efforts of the textile, clothing, and footwear arm of Skills Insight will also contribute to new opportunities and support for emerging designers.”
Melbourne Fashion Hub was officially launched in 2021 and has since grown from a minimum viable product (MVP) featuring just four designers during the pandemic to an established incubator program with partnerships at venues such as Emporium Melbourne.
To date, 44 designers have completed the free program, including the likes of Oscar Keene, Sofia Stafford (aka Sabatucci), Safa El Samad, Tamika Sewell, and Bronzen Taylor Bogaars.
The program runs annually over two years, spanning from late September to mid-November for the theoretical segment, culminating in a retail pop-up event on the third weekend in March.