The biggest barrier to adopting more sustainable and circular business models is pricing, according to A.BCH founder Courtney Holm.
Speaking on a panel during Geelong Design Week 2024, Holm said that developing sustainable practices and materials can require significant financial investment, “which creates challenges for brands when it comes to sourcing high-quality, sustainable materials within tight budget constraints.”
“Lack of supply of appropriate materials that meet the necessary environmental criteria for circularity is also an issue,” she said. “Many fabrics today are complex blends, making them difficult to recycle, as blended fibres often lack the compatibility required for effective recycling processes.
“While materials like polyester and other synthetics are theoretically recyclable, in practice, there is limited infrastructure to support this, meaning these materials often end up in landfill
“Compounding these issues is the complexity of recycling itself. Knowing which materials are sustainable - and having reliable sources for them - is another challenge.”
Holm said a large portion of commonly used materials are simply unsuitable for a circular economy.
“In contrast, materials such as pure cotton or nylon are more easily recycled than blended fabrics, though these too require specific infrastructure and processes,” she said. “There is a lot of research and investment that needs to be done to mitigate these issues and allow brands, suppliers and manufacturers to work together toward a truly circular future.”
The panel Holm spoke on also included Deakin University associate professor in fibre science and technology Chris Hurren, Sustainability Victoria investment advisor Ira Malhi and Country Road brand sustainability manager Fabia Pryor.
Panel host Genevieve Brannigan, who is also the founder of Communications Collective and Collectivity Talks, then asked Malhi what changes or strategies are needed to make sustainable fashion the norm.
Malhi responded, saying that Australia’s fashion future must have design at its core.
“The design stage of a product’s development can impact 70 to 80 per cent of its environmental impact,” she said. “The decisions made during this phase affect the product's materials, lifespan, repairability, and end-of-life fate.
“From a consumer perspective, research commissioned by Sustainability Victoria last year showed that living sustainably and reducing waste is important to Victorians. But more work is needed to shift from a ‘throw-away' or linear economy to a circular economy.
“While the conversation on sustainability is slowly shifting - 26 per cent of Victorians now believe climate change is one of the top three issues of importance - more needs to be done to impact consumer behaviour through education and to create a repair, reuse and recycle ecosystem that is convenient and accessible.”
Malhi added that there also needs to be a conscious effort from the industry to address overproduction.
“Currently this is estimated to be between 20 per cent to 30 per cent, which means roughly a quarter of all clothing produced each year is never sold and ends up being discarded,” she said. “Rather than fast fashion, we need to look to the opposite end of the spectrum - slow fashion.”
The push towards circularity and sustainability is being driven by Australia’s voluntary national clothing product stewardship scheme Seamless, in which signed-on brands commit to donating four cents for every garment they sell, with the levy going towards the development of circular models and technology.
Meanwhile, Hurren stepped in to talk about navigating fashion waste, saying that one of the main challenges Australia is facing is simply getting used clothing out of the trash bin.
“People often think worn-out clothing is too dirty, damaged, or undesirable for reuse,” Hurren said. “Overcoming this requires consumer education and a more accessible, convenient recycling process. Accessibility is key to encouraging recycling at the end of a garment’s life, but the current infrastructure is limited and costly.
“Sorting, removing zippers and buttons, and preparing garments for recycling is expensive. Expanding this kind of infrastructure is challenging, as the setup is complex and expensive, and few companies have the ability to make the significant investment required.”
Another critical barrier, according to Hurren, is the lack of a robust de-ragging or fibre-recovery line in Australia. He said this exists overseas but is yet to be developed here.
“Establishing a small-scale defibring line or laboratory demonstration facility could be a game-changer, as it would allow the industry to prove the feasibility and return on investment of recycling worn textiles,” Hurren said. “Taking this step would require investment from companies willing to commit to sustainability and innovation.
"Having a product demonstrator - a tangible, small-scale example - in research labs at the Future Fibres Research Hub at Deakin University, could help bridge this gap and help secure buy-in from more businesses.
“With accessible recycling facilities and industry collaboration, end-of-life textiles could be repurposed rather than discarded, significantly reducing waste.”