Australian fashion designer Akira Isogawa sits down with ragtrader.com.au to dicuss upcoming collaborations and the new sustainable trajectory for his brand.
You're planning to launch a six-style collaboration, including accessories, with Jordan Gogos at Afterpay Australian Fashion Week. How did that come about?
When we started collaborating back in November, we weren't discussing that at all. But this year in February, Jordan called me up and said that he's now committed to doing a big show at AAFW, sponsored by Afterpay. When he mentioned the big show, we start discussing maybe launching a small capsule collection at the same time. We did a quick sketch, but then we got really busy with the show. So we haven't actually re-visited it yet. I think what's going to happen is, after the show on the 16th of May, we will revisit this idea.
What were the initial stages in the collaboration - what were the sketches for instance?
One of the sketches we’ve done is an accessory, which is actually my teddy bear bag. The Powerhouse Museum acquired my teddy bear bag, which was actually part of my exhibition there in 2018. My teddy bear bag was launched in 2004 in Paris, and Jordan loved it very much. But we are planning to make it more accessible. Apart from that, it's a collection that is accessible in terms of style - like shirts and dresses - however more unisex driven. We want to make sure that we are not dressing just one gender.
Do you have any current plans for your eponymous fashion label?
We haven't released a collection for two years. I am planning to do so, however, I am hesitant to release a collection based on season. I would actually like to see the collection transcend seasons. It's likely that I'll release at least one collection this year, but I wouldn't call it Spring/Summer nor Resort nor Autumn/Winter. I would rather be a designer who is able to determine when to release, rather than driven by the fashion calendar.
What about private commissions or projects?
I have been taking orders. For example, when I receive some ideas - often by email - it could be for occasions such as a wedding. In fact, it was only last month I dressed one bride - a private order. And then also one guest as well, who attended a wedding. So yes, I'm continually working on private commissions.
I have a few orders a month. That keeps me busy. During COVID, it went quiet. The last collection I launched was in May 2021 - the Fragmented collection. It was a very quiet time, but I kept working - because otherwise, I just thought I'll go crazy.
Covid definitely affected my way of thinking and the way I work. So that was a catalyst for me to decide to just break away from the fashion cycle. Because I was actually launching a Spring/Summer collection and an Autumn/Winter Collection, and so on. So I stopped doing that completely.
What key trends are you seeing in the fashion design space now post-COVID?
Sustainability is a growing concern. That was another reason why I slowed down. COVID was a time for me to re-evaluate the priority in my life - to be aware, and then also care, for the environment.
The Fragmented collection which I released in 2021 was all based on utilising the waste of material that I had in my studio workspace. I put all the offcuts together and I created new textile from waste materials. It was very satisfying because I just felt that I was making clothes and offering styles for the sake of the environment - not because we have to as a designer. I find there's a sense of purpose. When I say the trend is sustainability, it's also that I wish it is a trend.
Have there been any updates on your partnership with the West Australian Ballet?
So I worked with West Australian Ballet back in 2019 and we launched a new piece in 2020 - that would have been in June. But then naturally, because of the lockdown, we were able to show it for one or two weeks, and it was eventually cancelled. The piece is called Slow Haunt.
We're revisiting this production and we're working with Melanie Lane. She's our choreographer and worked on Slow Haunt in 2019-2020. We are expanding this piece to 60 minutes. So I'm just designing a few more costumes now - we don't have much time actually because it's going to launch at the end of June.
You also have an ongoing project with the Powerhouse Museum, which involves designing exhibition spaces. Can share more on that?
So they're refurbishing it. I was invited to become a part of a team with other architects. We submitted our design at the end of November last year, and we won. So I'm a part of this winning team and I had a number of meetings with them. With the Powerhouse Museum, they're in stage one which involves confirming the new exterior look. Once we get through that stage, I'm going to start working on the interior of the Powerhouse Museum.
I feel very privileged to contribute, especially since I know the team at the Powerhouse Museum, and I feel there is a sense of trust, even when launching my own exhibition in 2018. Also, I have visited a number of times to Jordan's studio at the Powerhouse Museum. I could accommodate him to work there.
So there will not only be extensions in the exhibition space but also the space for artists in residence. And also retail stores as well.
*transcript edited for brevity