In this op-ed, retail consultant and 6one5 founder Bill Rooney dives into the key challenges faced by Cotton On Group and how the fashion retailer can pitch towards success.
In a recent report published by The Australian, journalist Eli Greenblat highlighted Cotton On's ongoing restructuring efforts. After years of rapid expansion, the Australian fashion retailer reported a net profit before tax of $27.6 million for the year ending June 30, 2024, against sales of $2.192 billion - a modest 1.2% return on sales.
To better understand Cotton On's position within the industry, I compared it to fast fashion giants Zara (Inditex), H&M, and Uniqlo (Fast Retail) which I will call the “Fast Fashion for the purpose of this article. This comparison, combined with insights into Cotton On and the broader Australian retail sector, sheds light on key areas for potential improvement.
Key challenges and opportunities for Cotton On
High Salary Costs Relative to Sale
A key area of concern is the high cost of salaries as a percentage of sales, which stands at 28%, significantly higher than the 15% to 18% range seen in “global fast fashion 3” leaders and leading Australian fashion retailers like Premier Investment Ltd with 24% wages to sales ratio. To put this in perspective a 4% wage ratio improvement would equate to $88m straight to the bottom line.
While global fast fashion leaders prioritize core duties to include cash register duties replenishment and change room management, Cotton On's model requires staff to engage in direct selling as well. To enhance efficiency, Cotton On might consider adopting the fast fashion model, emphasizing streamlined operations over direct sales.
For instance, Zara employees/store ratio is 29 staff per store to achieve sales of $10.29 million, whereas Cotton On employee/staff ration is 15 staff to generate $1.6 million per store. The disparity in sales per employee underscores the need for a shift in approach.
Technology Transformation
Another critical aspect for Cotton On to address is its technology infrastructure. The company currently relies on a legacy ERP system, Retail Directions. Despite discussions in 2017 about upgrading to systems like Oracle, SAP, or Microsoft, no changes have been implemented. Adopting modern ERP solutions and RFID technology is vital for improving stock control, supply chain management, and overall cost-effectiveness. The global fast fashion leaders made this transition many years ago.
Cultivating Culture and Innovation
Cotton On's Geelong headquarters, home to 1,200 employees and a range of amenities like subsidized childcare and wellness facilities, reflects its commitment to talent development. However, there are challenges associated with maintaining a dynamic, innovative culture. The company faces risks such as resistance to change, protecting the status quo, and attracting top-tier talent, which naturally comes from being located in Geelong, 70 kilometres from Melbourne and thousands of kilometres from the world fashion centres. Addressing these cultural challenges is essential for fostering a more agile, forward-thinking organisation.
Increasing Store Footprint Square Metres
Cotton On could benefit from expanding its store footprint square metres to accommodate sub-brands, reduce staffing levels, and adopt a self-service model akin to its fast fashion counterparts. Streamlining operations in this way would align with industry best practices and improve overall efficiency.
A path forward for Cotton On
Cotton On has achieved remarkable growth, standing alongside industry leaders in areas such as gross margin, e-commerce sales rent ratios. However, Eli Greenblat's report suggests restructuring will focus on dividing the business into Cotton On and Emerging Brands, to enhance decision-making agility and responsiveness to fashion trends. While promising, these changes must be accompanied by addressing deeper challenges, such as cost management, technology adoption, cultural innovation, and store optimization.
Profit & Loss Benchmark
Comparative analysis of key financial metrics between Inditex (Zara), H&M, Uniqlo, and Cotton On reveals significant differences:
- Sales (AUD): $58.2B (Zara), $33B (H&M), $24.1B (Uniqlo), $2.2B (Cotton On)
- Gross Profit Margins are competitive, with Cotton On at 60%, surpassing Zara's 58%.
- Operating Expenses are a notable concern, with Cotton On's wage costs at 28% compared to lower levels among competitors.
- Sales Per Employee figures highlight room for improvement, as Cotton On trails behind with $109,608 compared to Zara's $352,941.
- Following is the Benchmark on Profit & Loss
· Key Performance Indicators
Conclusion
Cotton On's potential for growth and success remains strong, but realising it requires strategic focus on cost management, technology enhancement, cultural innovation, and operational efficiency. By leveraging these insights and adapting to industry best practices, Cotton On is well-positioned to thrive in the competitive fast fashion landscape.