First Nations fashion brand Ngali is considering moving its manufacturing offshore as supply chain costs and labour shortages place pressure on the Australian fashion industry.
Speaking with Ragtrader, Ngali founder Denni Francisco said she wants Ngali to remain Australian made, “but it’s getting harder to do.”
“What we're witnessing is that the smaller brands are getting pushed out,” Francisco said. “Our lead times have extended, our prices have increased, minimum orders have increased.
“It’s become more and more difficult. So now, we're having to look at the real possibility of manufacturing offshore.”
Indeed, with the market perception that being 100% Australian made is a viable goal for local businesses, Francisco said that this is not enough.
“Our business is about making a contribution and being a business for good – in terms of supporting our First Nations artists, supporting our kids’ education – so we have to build a viable, sustainable business in order to do that,” Francisco continued.
“And if we cannot do that in Australia, we still have to find a way to do that – so that we're still giving back and still making a difference.”
For smaller brands, Francisco said they must think beyond just being Australian made.
“And I know that people say they'd love things to be Australian made, but they probably also love that – through fashion – children's education can be improved, First Nations communities can improve.
“So you have to weigh that up, because just being Australian made right now is not enough.”
“It has to be more than just business. It has to be: what's the contribution that we make? Are we moving lightly and softly on country? How do we go about protecting country in our business activity?
“It's all very well to be an Australian company, but what does that mean as you spread that out? What contribution are we making? What pathways are we forging?
“How do we hold ourselves accountable to the things we do?”
Expected criticisms from the community when it comes to moving manufacturing offshore are around ethical processes.
Francisco said that “whether you're doing it here or offshore, you should ensure that it's ethically sourced – that's a given.”
This includes production processes as well, according to Francisco.
“And now that the Australian Fashion Council has launched the Australian fashion brand, I think that that's a good thing because there's still accountability.
“It doesn't mean to say that you have to be Australian made to be an Australian fashion brand, but you do have to fulfill a number of criteria.”
Runways and wholesale
Despite the manufacturing struggles, Francisco said the Ngali brand is still growing. This is mostly buoyed by increased awareness of and interest in First Nations fashion, particularly this year where Ngali has featured in local and international runway shows.
For Francisco, the biggest issue for First Nations fashion is gaining recognition of its creative potential and landing the right platforms to share it.
“When that starts to happen, people seem to want more of it,” said Francisco.
“I just participated in and witnessed the Country to Couture in Darwin. There were two shows, with 500 people at each one. And people were amazed!
“The visibility [for First Nations fashion] was a challenge to start with, and now that there's more light being shone on it, it’s gathering more momentum.”
Melbourne Fashion Week is another major runway that Ngali features in, with the brand already in line to showcase its Miya collection later this year.
As well as Melbourne Fashion week, Ngali is also planning to host its own independent runway on October 12, with details to be announced soon.
“We're looking at doing that as a way of offering an opportunity for any of our First Nations people or students to shadow them," Francisco said.
This learning process is not just focused on styling, but also includes shadowing photographers and videographers.
Ngali is also gaining a lot of interest from overseas markets, particularly around Europe. This was mostly buoyed by the featuring of its then-latest collection for Milan Fashion Week in February this year, which has sparked the possibility of furthering its international reach.
“We're looking at what we can do within Milano from next year and looking at the European market mainly and the UK.
“The UK is a low hanging fruit in terms of understanding Australian design and concept.
“It'll be a little while before that takes off, but just taking those careful steps [is a great start].”
For the meantime though, Francisco is aiming to expand Ngali into the wholesale market, as well as furthering its work with and support of First Nations designers and artists.
“Not to do the same thing that we're doing; just in their own way, so they can see that pathway forward.”
“Everything we do as First Nations, we're always thinking who's following us. What's our contribution to community? Because it's more than just business.”
“I want to keep the business as simple as possible,” Francisco finished. “I'm really happy to start with David Jones, and look at what we're able to do there.
“But I haven't really expanded that out. You can't just spread your wings too wide.”